TALISMAN'S CRUISE TO INVERNESS.

Martin McArthur.Instruments.


After our failed cruise to the Channel Islands and Anne subsequently been given the all clear (well nearly) I wanted to get back to sea, but not so far from home. I had been talking to my brother on the phone, he lives in Inverness, and he suggested that maybe we could go to Inverness. About the same time I heard that the Crinan canal were offering assisted passages at no extra cost. Having once paid an exorbitant fee to a 'pilot' for assistance to transit the Crinan I had said that I would not go there again but this made all the difference!

Nearly a month after getting back from Holyhead, we set off on Wednesday 4th of July for Tarbert, arriving there after less than 7 pleasant hours of gentle motor sailing. We left early next morning (0700) for Ardrishaig and were into the canal by 0935 having paid the fee of £201∙85 for a 14 day licence to cover transit of both the Crinan and the Caledonian canals. Passage through the canal was swift and trouble free, at every lock there was someone to take my warps and operate the gates. We were in Crinan basin in just under 5 hours from starting out! We were so early that I decided to move on to Craobh rather than the planned stay overnight in the Crinan basin. Next day, after refuelling, we set off to Oban marina at Kerrera. On the way there I was given a sharp lesson in seamanship! As we approached the southern end of the Sound of Kerrera I was reading a very exciting story (on my Kindle) and had not been following my usual procedure of reading 2 or 3 pages (4 or 5 minutes) then having a look around, I had been spending a lot longer NOT keeping a good lookout. I had looked at the approach to the Sound, judged that we were aimed in the right direction and were in safe water with no other vessels in sight and went back to a very exciting part of the book. Ten minutes later I got a big shock as, with an enormous bang 'Talisman' stopped abruptly!!! We had hit the rocks on the eastern side of the entrance to the Sound! I was soundly berated from down below as I extricated the boat from the rocks and then quickly checked for visible damage, ie no leaks. All seemed well and we went on, this time with a much more attentive skipper! Notwithstanding the lesson I had just received I managed to put Talisman on the rocks again! At the buoy marking the Ferry Rocks, nearly at Oban, I took the buoy on the wrong side and we slid, quite gently this time, on to the rocks marked by the buoy. Fortunately the tide was rising so we came off quite easily with no great shock. Two lessons in one day!!!

The following day (Saturday) at Kerrera I was allowed to put 'Talisman' on the slipway to examine the damage. The lower leading edge of the port keel had taken the blow and a strip of gel coat about 10 inches long and less than 2 inches wide had been knocked off exposing glass fibres. I made a trip across to Oban and bought a kit of 2 part epoxy. After rinsing the damaged area with fresh water and drying as well as possible, I applied the epoxy to the 'wound'. When lifted out at the end of the season the repair was still there and appears to only require some dressing off and covering with coppercoat to be permanent.

Sunday we were off again to Corpach, the entrance to the Caledonian canal. With a fairly strong wind just off the port bow progress was slow and it took over 8 hours for the passage. Longer than expected and we arrived at about the time the lock gates were due to close until the next tide. Fortunately I called on VHF and the canal staff said that if I was quick he could hold the gate for a short time. We were no sooner into the lock than the gate closed behind us. As I already had the necessary paperwork there was little administration to be done but I did not get the chance to arrange to refuel Talisman before venturing into the canal.

In Corpach basin we met Rik Eppens from Holland on board a yacht called 'Fin Fin'. He was returning to his home berth at (was it) Gairlochy? He spent some time working in Scotland for the Forestry Commission and lived aboard while there. We had an enjoyable meal with him on board 'Talisman'.

Next morning we set off at 0840, we had to be at the foot of 'Neptune's Staircase' by 0900. We were nearly half way up the Staircase before I had a chance to ask about fuel, only to be told I should have got it at Corpach! Fortunately my brother was due to meet up with us later that day - with his car. He met up with us at Laggan and took me (and my diesel can) back to Corpach where I got 11 litres which were immediately decanted into the tank. He went off home carrying the can which he would fill and bring back the following day. On the way to Laggan we had to cross Loch Lochy against a stiff breeze and I was surprised by the size of waves generated, not that they were so big, just bigger than expected. We spent the night in the marina, a windswept and lonely place where we saw not another person until we passed through the locks next day.

We had an easy day on Tuesday, leaving Laggan at 0930 we cruised gently across Loch Oich then through the Aberchalder swing bridge, Cullochy and Kitra Locks before arriving at the top of Fort Augustus Locks at125. Here my brother delivered the fuel that he had picked up at Inverness marina. I had given him very clear instructions to make sure that he declared our 60/40 use of marine diesel.

From Fort Augustus we descended to Loch Ness. Still the wind was blowing from the northwest so we motored steadily along this impressive stretch of water with the really marvellous scenery. The only problem came when, nearly at the end of the loch, we were hit by a big wash that came unexpectedly from our port quarter. 'Talisman' rolled violently and something fell from the engine box on to the quarter berth, striking a cough bottle that was lying there and smashing the bottle. Cough mixture on the cushions, what a sticky mess! We never did see what had caused such a big wash.

From Loch Ness we crossed Loch Dochfour, through Dochgarroch Lock and Tomnahurich Swing Bridge, then down the Muirtown Locks to the Seaport Marina. After refuelling we were allocated a berth in the marina where my brother and his wife joined us for dinner. Very posh - fish and chips! Next night they took us out for a meal.

All too soon it was time to make the return trip. From Seaport marina we made for Fort Augustus where we spent the night. Crossing Loch Ness the wind was at last favourable and for the first time we were able to sail. On the way up the Fort Augustus Locks I managed to remember to take a photo showing the water swirling into the lock. On the way back we stopped at the top of Neptune's Staircase and in the sea lock at Corpach. The sea lock was quite busy with boats coming into the canal and those, like us, about to leave. From Corpach we sailed to Kerrera and on to Craobh.

Leaving Craobh the weather was poor with rain and a fairly thick mist. Fortunately this cleared up soon after we arrived at Crinan. Passage through the canal was slower this time than the passage north but we still managed to make the passage from Craobh to Tarbert in just over 11 hours. The following day we returned to Troon having been away for 15 days and logged 283 miles.